YANKEE CRUISE TO THE MEDITERRANEAN

Last updated June 2009

August 3, 1937, Tuesday. Depart New York, Captain William W. Kuhne in command.

August 9, 1937, Monday. Arrive at Ponta Delgada, Azores. Passengers from the SS Excambion, with their tour guide from Thomas Cook, take an overland excursion to Ponta Delgada, Azores.

August 10, 1937, Tuesday, At Sea

This is the first opportunity I have had to sit down in an effort to corral my reactions to the first week of this so far most delightful voyage. At the present moment we are roughly 400 miles from Ponta Delgada in the Azores, which latter place we visited (after a fashion) yesterday. I wish I could just half describe how marvelous it has all been. We have been particularly blessed with pleasant weather every moment since we left New York, which, by the way, was a full week ago, today. I no longer wonder at the lure of the sea. It is now all understandable. Picture, if you don't mind, a few scattered cottony clouds in a sun-brilliant sky. Picture water of the loveliest blue imaginable. Combine all this with a bracing, salt laden breeze and the pleasant rustle of waves breaking in the ship's wake. Now that you have that picture, imagine how delightful it would be if you were here to enjoy it as well.

I shall try to make it as alive for you, as it is for me, here, enjoying it all, at the present moment. The three or four days following my departure from Chicago are rather kaleidoscopic. I was transported. I ate. I slept.I looked at things.....but it won't be until later that the "high spots" will stand out. Suffice it to say that it was all highly enjoyable, particularly Washington with its lovely buildings, broad boulevards and immense vistas,particularly the view from the Lee mansion looking across the Potomac River and the Memorial bridge to the Lincoln Memorial.

In New York I had such a mad scramble to see everyone and get my belongings to the ship that about all I noticed was the things that you and I know so well from our visit in March, the immense buildings towering up so splendidly, the atmosphere of speed, and the bustle of activity of eight million people.

We rode by taxi from Cook's office to Jersey City and we sailed about an hour late. The first evening out was rather a frigid one. Since then, of course, people have unbent considerably.

On Wednesday, following departure day, I spent getting acquainted with some of the passengers and making preparation for the sightseeing trip at Ponta Delgada. The islands themselves (there are about eight of them) were sighted in the morning yesterday. San Miguel, the main island was sighted at noon....off the port (left) bow, about twenty miles ahead. From then on until 1.30 p.m. every one was on deck watching this picturesque island take more recognizable shape as we drew nearer to it. The island is 40 miles long and nine miles wide. It slopes upward from the sea to mountain peaks 400 feet high -- most of which were cloud encircled. Everywhere the sky was brilliantly blue, except that directly over the island were tremendous billowing white clouds, formed by air currents being diverted upward from reflecting heat of the sun on the island.

Ponta Delgada, Azores, Post card, circa 1937

These slopes were a lovely green, a welcome sight after so much water, and we afterwards learned that the chief products are tobacco and pineapples. Upon reaching an anchorage at Ponta Delgada we discovered another cruising ship was in port, the S.S.SLAMAT of the Rotterdam Lloyd, out of Rotterdam on a cruise to the Azores, Madeira, Lisbon, etc., with 400 passengers aboard. Upon dropping anchor, about twenty five boats of varied description sped out from shore to our ship -- most of which were what are called "bum-boats". These boats carried nondescript natives selling wicker ware, native straw hats, similar to the wide sombreros of the Mexicans, hand made Madeira lace work including table sets, post cards, and a variety of other things. There ware also diving boys who dived for coins that passengers threw overboard. After an interval, our agent, Sr, Moreira, a man of about 75 dressed in an old fashioned suit and wearing a derby, came aboard with his son. He told us everything was in readiness, that he had seventeen "excellent" cars and that he had a splendid program of sightseeing planned. My heart fairly stopped, once on shore, when I saw the collection of antique decrepit vehicles he called "excellent". None of the cars, if I may call them such, were under eight years of age. Of course the passengers were flabbergasted, but most of then entered into the spirit of the thing and agreeably climbed in. Bear in mind, of course, that we had a number of old maids, and elderly people who were used to luxury.

They finally got all the cars started and, incidentally, none of the drivers spoke English. I found that what little Spanish I knew helped, for it is very similar to Portuguese, The streets of the town are no more than 12 or 15 feet wide. The houses are flush with the curbing (there are no front yards )and how those drivers made those cars go! We were constantly dodging barefoot children, ox-carts, donkey carts, and other automobiles. On top of it, each car was equipped with a bulb type horn and they constantly kept them going. What a ride. After visiting a public garden, which really was lovely, we went to a pineapple plantation and had a drink of pineapple juice. (We have better juice at home), then drove into town (two cars broke down enroute and we had to hang on to the running boards of other cars).

Upon arrival in the centre of the town we purchased postal cards and stamps. I sent four cards since we had to leave right away, then met Raises and Moreira. Moreira bought us orange-crush and some native cookies that were very delicious and we all traipsed to the jetty to take the tender back to the ship.

I have seldom seen so many people standing around, poorly dressed, doing nothing, as I did in Ponta Delgada, No-one seemed to have a job. The streets are filthy, ox dung everywhere and it seemed like there were a million barefoot kids running everywhere. Their main cry was "fi cens". But the fascinating thing was the pastel-shaded stucco two story houses with little gilded balconies. Of course the whole town was out on their respective balconies waving at we tourists. They all seemed to be a genial happy-go-lucky bunch. There is a young chap on the ship bound for the U.S, embassy in Teheran Persia. Since leaving New York he has been on deck every night with a fairly attractive young lady. It seems, also, that they have been necking considerably. However, he couldn't make the grade with this girl so that promptly upon arrival at Ponta del Gada he sought out the red-light district and got himself a fourteen year old girl. The funny part of it all is that a number of tourists saw him! and are they clucking to themselves!

Reluctantly, for it is an attractive island (as viewed from the ship) we returned to the steamer and sailed at 6.00 p.m.

We are now running into a little choppy weather and its getting very cool on deck, I'm afraid I shall have to go below. In the meantime I hope you are well and thinking of me, I am constantly thinking about you. I shall be looking forward to a letter from you at Marseilles. I shall try to mail this and my other letters at Gibraltar but if we don't get a chance I shall mail them at Marseilles.

August 12, 1937, Thursday. Arrive in British Gibraltar. Then enroute from Gibraltar to Marseille

Most of the passengers got up at 6:00 A.M. today to view our entrance into the bay at Gibraltar. At about 7:00 A.M. the sun broke out over the top of the rock -- and it was a most marvelous sight to behold. I took two pictures of it.

A most peculiar thing happened while going through the Straits. We saw two tiny boats that looked like miniature freighters come up from the side, cross over our bow and circle us. Looking down we saw that these boats were giving us the "once over" -- flying General Franco's insurgent flag -- and most surprising, each of the ships had twelve-foot guns that gleamed in the morning sun. The ship's officers paid no attention to these tiny boats -- but were the old maid passengers frightened!

As suddenly as they appeared they left. One of the officers said these boats gave every steamer the "once over". I supposed they would actually fire if they came across a Loyalist boat. We have seen surprisingly few steamers -- only about three destroyers in the bay. We paused only half-hour at Gibraltar -- then hurried on. We have been steaming all day in the blue Mediteranean about ten miles off shore. At about five o'clock a British destroyer signalled to the ship to come to a dead stop, and circle back. We did so and the destroyer hove to and told the officers we were too close to Spain -- and that we must immediately alter our course -- which we promptly did; -- it seams this destroyer was a part of the Internatioinal Intervention Patrol. Interesting experiences -- what!

I have been spending a great deal of time in the sun and you wouldn't recognize me. I am so tan. There is not much opportunity to read on this boat. They haven't anything to read! In the evening while the rest of the passengers dance and drink, I just sort of wander about -- then go to bed at 10 or 10:30. I enclose a menu of the Captain's dinner tonight! Please save it for me.

Saturday -- Marseille and I can at last mail some letters. I may do a little buying too. Do you think your father would like a bottle of French Cognac or Champagne for his collection. I suppose you would like some French perfume -- No?

August 14, 1937, Saturday. Arrive in Marseilles, France.

August 15, 1937, Sunday. Arrive in Naples, Italy.

August 16, 1937, Tuesday. Passengers from the SS Excambion, with their tour guide from Thomas Cook, take an overland excursion from Naples to Pompei, Amalfi, and Sorrento.

We have just returned to the steamer from the Pompei - Amalfi - Sorrento trip and I don't think I shall ever again see such beauty as I saw today -- words fail me, suffice it to say that it is really incredible. I sent you a postcard from Amalfi. I got your second letter this morning in Naples -- but never received the first. I hope you weren't ill. In any event your second letter sounded cheery -- and I was glad to get it! I love you dear and I miss you like hell. But it is only 30 more days and by the time you get this it will be only 19 more days. Love to you and everybody. You should see what I bought you today -- oh! Boy! I'm glad you had an enjoyable time.

August 20, 1937, Friday. Arrive in Alexandria, Egypt.

August 21, 1937, Saturday. Passengers from the SS Excambion, with their tour guide from Thomas Cook, take an overland excursion from Alexandria to Jerusalem, in British Controlled Palestine.

After a thrilling hour's ride through the mountains from 6:00 A.M. to 7:00 A.M. we reached Jerusalem -- had breakfast (menu enclosed) then went sightseeing to the walled city, Church of the Holy Sepulcher, Dome of the Rock (a Mohammedan Mosque) where we had to take off our shoes. This afternoon we saw the Church of the Nativity where Christ was supposed to have been born and other places in Bethlehem as well as to the Mt. of Olives and Garden of Gethsemane. Jerusalem is very cool (2500 feet above sea level) and surprisingly modern.

August 22, 1937, Sunday. Passengers from the SS Excambion, with their tour guide from Thomas Cook, take an overland excursion from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, Galilee and Tiberius in British Occupied Palestine, and Damascus in French Occupied Syria.

So this is Damascus! It's just so-so. As far as I am concerned we had a fine ride from Jerusalem, and Tiberius, The Sea of Galilee and Nazareth yesterday. So far I am feeling fine and no "bugs" have caught up with me. Hope you are well.

August 23, 1937, Monday. Passengers from the SS Excambion, with their tour guide from Thomas Cook, take an overland excursion from French Occupied Damascus to Baalbek and Beirut in French Occupied Lebanon.

August 24, 1937, Tuesday. Depart Beirut.

August 25, 1937, Wednesday. In Port of Alexandria, Egypt: second call

Well, we completed the Egypt - Palestine - Syria overland trip in good style. We are in Alexandria today until 6:00 P.M. Today also marks the half way mark in the cruise. My health has been good except for occasional stomach disorder -- difference in food, etc.

Wait until you see the Silk Brocade robe one of the Bazaar owners gave me in Damascus. Is it a honey. I was also given a five pound box of Palestine and Syria glazed fruit and chocolates as well as a vial of genuine Cologne essence. I hope you continue to be well and I assure you I think of you constantly.

August 27, 1937, Friday. Passengers from the SS Excambion, with their tour guide from Thomas Cook, take an overland excursion to Cairo, Egypt, and then depart Alexandria

August 28, 1937, Saturday. Arrive at Pireas (Athens), Greece

August 29, 1937, Sunday. Arrive at at Naples, Italy: second call

August 30, 1937, Monday. Arrive at Rome, Italy

August 31, 1937, Tuesday. Passengers from the SS Excambion, with their tour guide from Thomas Cook, take an overland excursion of Rome, Italy. Depart Rome.

September 2, 1937, Thursday. Arrive at Genoa, Italy

Well there isn't a great deal of this trip left -- only Marseilles and then 10 days of ocean to Boston and 2 to New York. It has all been very delightful but I'm getting weary of traveling. I wish I were home -- but I'm not. I'll just have to bear it.

The passenger list has changed considerably -- quite a number are getting on here and at Marseilles.

So far I have either received as gifts or purchased various articles to take care of my gift list with just one or two exceptions.

I was given the most beautiful brocade robe, satin lined and faced, in Damascus. Wait until you see it!

September 3, 1937, Friday. Arrive at Marseilles, France: Second call

September 8, 1937, Wednesday. At Sea

We are due to arrive Jersey City at 10.00 a.m. September 15th. Allowing for time in clearing customs and getting over to New York, we should be in the office about 1.00 p.m. This would give me 6 hours until the Manhattan Limited leaves at 7.00 p.m. I am planning on taking this train, which should get me to Englewood Station at 1.13 p.m. Chicago time Thursday the 16th, In the event anything turns up which alters this, I shall wire you. But you might plan on meeting me at the Englewood Union Station at the above time. Then, if I have to alter it I shall so advise you.

We have been terribly busy on the way home getting our records cleared up. The weather has been delightful ... very smooth and comfortable warm.

September 13, 1937, Monday. Arrive Boston, Massachusetts

September 14, Tuesday, Boston

On getting back to the steamer last night we found we weren't to sail until 4.00 PM today. At 3.00 P.M. today they told us we won't sail until 9.00 A.M. tomorrow. Which means I will be a whole day late. They are having strike trouble here and in N.Y.

Will wire you Thursday in N.Y. what time to meet me Friday in Chicago.

September 15, 1937, Wednesday. Depart Boston

September 16, 1937, Thursday. Arrive in New York harbor.

Sources

• Private correspondence from Mr. Frederic Dewey, on board SS Excambion, August 1937